Robo's World » How-To

Portable Double Nucs

Robo — Sun, 20 Dec 2009 16:59:41 +0000

I just finished building 20 double 5 frame nucs that can be disassembled for storage and/or transporting. I used polystyrene deeps as they can be knocked down and reassembled in about 1 minute. I built a simple bottom board out of 1/2″ plywood with 3 inch entrances on opposite sides.

The cover is also made out of 1/2″ plywood, and a coroplast divider separates the 2 colonies. The bottom board, hive body sides, and cover where all dadoed for the coroplast divider. I have long haul transportation in mind, so I wanted the coroplast supported on on four sides, and it also keeps the bottom board, hive body and cover all aligned. I also cut small vent holes in the bottom board in the back of each nuc. Small blocks where also added to the corners of the bottom board to allow for ventilation when the nucs are stacked for hauling.

The cover has screened vent/feeder holes for each nuc away from the entrance to reduce the chances of robbing. A ratchet strap is used to hold the whole thing together when moving. A sheet of coroplast is placed over the cover for protection when out in the field.

The last photo shows a stack of 17 knocked down double nucs (34 nucs total) with an assembled deep in front for comparison. Each double nuc weighs 12.5 pounds without frames.

Frames and Frame Assembly

Robo — Fri, 13 Mar 2009 02:23:20 +0000

It seems like frames and frame assembly is something that the beginners on Beemaster forums often have questions about. So with the help of my son, I’m working on putting together a series of short videos. Here is the first session which is an overview of frame types, frame sizes, and frame styles. I will do additional segments on frame assembly and frame wiring.

Overview

Foundation & Wiring

Eyelets & Assembly

Jigs & Air Nailers

Jig plan available in download area.

Frame spacing tool

Robo — Tue, 03 Mar 2009 17:02:24 +0000

I don’t like to put frame spacers in my supers because I like to start new un-drawn frames 10 to a super to get the comb drawn correctly. Once the frames are drawn, I reduce them to 9 per super to make extracting easier. I’ve tried putting 9-frame spacers in some and no spacers in others, but it always comes down to having a super with spacers when I need one without and vice versa. So I have settled on no spacers and manually spacing frames when setting the super.
You can spend close to $20 for a frame spacing tool that some of the dealers sell. By the way, it is about the size of a regular hive tool, and we know how easy they are to loose. One supplier even recommends using two of these tools to make it easier. So you can spend close to $40 or built one for just a couple of buck on your own.

All you need is a scrap board, 2 frame spacers and a cheap handle. I know, it looks like a fancy handle, but it was the cheapest one Lowe’s had. It was in the “clearance” pile and was less than $1.
Six frame nails and two screws, a wa-la! a $2 frame spacing tool.

Cut-out Frames

Robo — Mon, 02 Mar 2009 19:55:58 +0000

Anyone that has done more than one cut-out knows what a pain it is to try and tie the comb into frames. Yes rubber bands may be easier, but they bring there own challenges too as they can sag with heavy comb. My preferred method is to use cut-out frames which are just regular frames cut down the middle, hinged on the bottom and have embedding wire strung around the outside. You simply open them like a book, install you comb and close the frame.

I start by cutting the side bars and top bars in half on a band saw. By using split bottom frames, I don’t need to cut the bottom bars. I then assemble them like I would a normal frame. By making a loop around the bottom bars with embedding wire creates the hinge. I put one on each end. I then string 3 rows of embedding wire on the outside of each side of the frame and hold it with staples.

Building Honey Supers

Robo — Mon, 02 Mar 2009 19:38:33 +0000

Another crappy weather day gave me the opportunity to build some more medium supers. I buy rough cut 1×8 lumber from a local mill. I plane the boards down to 7/8″ so the supers are a little bit tougher that the normal 3/4″ commercial supers. Then using the table saw, I cut the boards to size, cut the hand holds and dado the frames rests. From there the sides go into a half-blind dovetail jig and after four passes with the router, they are ready to be assembled. I can get 10 supers from 8 boards.

Bushkill Bee Vac

Robo — Thu, 27 Mar 2008 13:57:49 +0000

Well I finally got around to building my “new and improved” bee vac design. I had it all figured out in my head for a while now, but never got to actually put one together. You can see it and all the details here.

How-To: Build a better mouse trap

Robo — Mon, 10 Sep 2007 14:14:00 +0000

Tired of catching mice one at a time? Tired of all the hassles trying to set the traps? How about building a better mouse trap? One that is self resetting, has no poisons, and best of all can be built from stuff that you already have. Even better, you can build it in a matter of minutes.

The principle is actually quite simple. It consists of a 5 gallon bucket of water with a tin can “log roll”. A simple ramp allows the mouse to climb up to the top of the bucket and get onto the peanut butter baited tin cans. Once on the cans, it is just a matter of time before the cans roll and the mouse falls into the bucket and drowns. Since the cans just roll, there is no need to reset, so it is always ready for the next mouse.

Here are a set of simple step by step instructions to make it happen.
Click any image to see a larger version


*Step 1:* Gather the parts and tools you will need. An old 5 gallon bucket. A metal coat hanger. Two vegetable or soup cans. Duct tape. Small piece of wood. A drill with a drill bit that is slightly larger than the diameter of the coat hanger wire. Wire cutters. A tape measure. A marking pen.

*Step 2:* Mark the center of the un-opened ends of the two cans with the marking pen. The closer you are to the center, the better the trap will work.

*Step 3:* Drill a hole at the marks made on the cans.

*Step 4:* Drill two holes in the bucket, just above the handle bosses. Depending on the size of the cans used, you may need to adjust the height of the holes in the bucket. You want the top of the cans to be close to the top of the bucket, but not higher.

*Step 5:* Lay the coat hanger across the bucket. Using the wire cutters, cut the bottom out of the coat hanger leaving at least an inch overhang on each side.

*Step 6:* Make a 90 degree bend, about 1/2 inch in length, at one end of the wire.

*Step 7:* Thead the straight end of the wire through one of the holes in the bucket. Thread the wire through the hole in the bottom of one of the cans and out through the open end of the can.

*Step 8:* Feed the wire through the open end of the second can and then thread it out through the hole in the bottom.

*Step 9:* Thread the wire out through the second hole in the bucket.

*Step 10:* With the bent end of the wire pushed against the bucket, trim the straight end so that 1 inch extends out of the bucket.

*Step 11:* Bend the straight end of the wire as close to the bucket as possible.

*Step 12:* Align the open ends of the two cans and duct tape them together.

*Step 13:* Drill a hole centered in the wood about 1/2 inch from the end.

*Step 14:* Cut one of the bent ends off the left over coat hanger.

*Step 15:* Bend it into the shape shown in the photo.

*Step 16:* Insert the straight end of the wire into the hole in the wood.

*Step 17:* Bend the wire over to hold it into the wood.

*Step 18:* Place the hook end over the edge of the bucket in line with the cans.

*Step 19:* Smear a little peanut butter around the duct tape as bait.

*Step 20:* Fill the bucket with 6 inches of water and you’re ready to catch some mice.

Tips:

If using the trap in freezing weather, use windshield washer fluid instead of water.
If you have to leave the trap for an extend period, like a weekend home, pour enough vegetable oil into the water to make a layer of oil above the water. The oil will act as a barrier and reduce the smell of the decaying mice.

If you have any other tips, let me know and I will add them.

Thanks to Blake for his assistance documenting this How-To:

Here is a similar design in action.

How-To: Queen Marking

Robo — Tue, 04 Sep 2007 14:43:42 +0000

There are good reasons to have your queens marked, including:

Ease in locating the queen during inspections.
Confirm the hive hasn’t swarmed.
Confirm the queen hasn’t been superseded. This can be very important in areas that have Africanized honeybees.

Unfortunately, many folks don’t have marked queens. Whether it not being an option when the purchased their queens, not wanting to pay the extra money to have it done, or they have raised their own queens.

For those that realize the benefit of having marked queens and would like to mark their queens, I have included a short demonstration video below.

How-To: Participate in a WpN Beekeeping Podcast

Robo — Fri, 29 Sep 2006 14:49:48 +0000

There are a few methods available for participating in the Wildlife Pro Network Beekeeping Podcasts.

Option 1: Join as a guest using a phone

Dial 1-724-444-7444 on your phone
When prompted for the Call ID enter 16456#
When prompted for your ID enter 1# to join as a guest

Option 2: Create a free TalkShoe account and join using a phone with your name/nickname

Go to http://www.talkshoe.com
Click on Sign Up at the top left

Fill out the form using your phone number as your pin and click on create user

Click on continue

Now just dial in as in Option 1 and if calling from the number you used as your pin, it will automatically recognize you. If not, enter your registered phone number when prompted for your ID #.

Option 3: Join online in listen only mode (guest or nickname)

Create a TalkShoe account as described in Option 2 if you want to join with a nickname
A few minutes before the podcast starts go to http://www.talkshoe.com/tc/16456
Click on TalkShoe Live