http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,15305.0.html

Set up your table saw with a stacked dado head cutter.
Set the depth of the cutter to about 3/8 inch (about half way)
Set the rip fence so the distance from the center of the dado to the fence is have the width or length of the board.
Place a stop block on your rip fence so the board will be just where you decide it is comfortable for picking up the box, (couple inches form the top).

Now the fun part. Turn on the saw, set the bottom of the board against the stop block. CAREFULLY, lower the board onto the dado making sure your fingers stay clear. Do this CAREFULLY as the board can take flight if it isn’t held securely.

Works great, works fast, and this step can be set up right after cutting the rabbits since I use the dado set for that operation anyway.

Thanks for the good stuff Robo. Hoped this little tid bit helped someone out there. Keep up the good work!

rob……

On my todo list. Unfortunately the list is quite long

A) How much time was spent building the supers described in this article?

It is hard to say, I do it more out of enjoyment than production. Starting with rough cut takes more time than if using dimensional lumber, and the larger the quantity you build the less time it takes per super. I have a small work shop, so I limit to about 10 at a time. Using the half-blind dovetail saves a bunch of time over the traditional box-joints. Basically 4 passes of a router per box. Of course butt joints would be even quicker. It cost me ~$3.20 per super not including time, glue, or staples. I can make 10 boxes in 4 hours which includes setting up the jigs and not rushing.

B) Other than the table saw, jigs and router……what other tools were required to fabricate the supers?
Planer (not needed if you use dimensional lumber) & air stapler (optional)

C) In a previous article, you developed a small hive heater based on using a set of night lite type light bulbs. Have you been using this concept since to invented it?
Yes, I have experimented with a few different versions from integrating then in bottom boards, slatted racks and even TBHs, but ultimately came back to the simplest design of two sockets glued together and inserted through the entrance.

If so, what have been the results?
It was how I first successfully overwintered nucs. I had 4 nucs in 2 TBHs and all 4 made it through the winter with the supplemental heat and syrup. But in general, I see quicker (hence stronger) spring build up.
It seems like such a great idea for helping a hive during cold weather and appears to be very cost effective. With a modest control system, it could be refined to cycle on the power, only when needed. I suspect it could be enlarged to support “remote” hives, if required.
The supplemental heat wasn’t my idea, it came from a Finnish beekeeper who used 15W terrarium heaters, but at $20 each it was too costly of a solution for me. That is why I came up with the two 7W night lights.
I have used computer automation to turn them on and off at set outside temperatures, but found it really provided no benefit. Now I just turn them on at the end of January/beginning of February and leave them on until the weather warms up. As you have probably read on the forums, I am a strong believer in maintaining nest temperature and most of this is from what I have learned with the supplemental heating. I have had queens move right down to lay in the bottom of the frames located right over the lights.

A) How much time was spent building the supers described in this article?

B) Other than the table saw, jigs and router……what other tools were required to fabricate the supers?

C) In a previous article, you developed a small hive heater based on using a set of night lite type light bulbs. Have you been using this concept since to invented it? If so, what have been the results? It seems like such a great idea for helping a hive during cold weather and appears to be very cost effective. With a modest control system, it could be refined to cycle on the power, only when needed. I suspect it could be enlarged to support “remote” hives, if required.

Thanks in advance for answering my questions.

Regards
Tucker (Rich Kroll)