Tired of catching mice one at a time? Tired of all the hassles trying to set the traps? How about building a better mouse trap? One that is self resetting, has no poisons, and best of all can be built from stuff that you already have. Even better, you can build it in a matter of minutes.
The principle is actually quite simple. It consists of a 5 gallon bucket of water with a tin can “log roll”. A simple ramp allows the mouse to climb up to the top of the bucket and get onto the peanut butter baited tin cans. Once on the cans, it is just a matter of time before the cans roll and the mouse falls into the bucket and drowns. Since the cans just roll, there is no need to reset, so it is always ready for the next mouse.
Here are a set of simple step by step instructions to make it happen.
Click any image to see a larger version
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Step 1: Gather the parts and tools you will need.
- An old 5 gallon bucket.
- A metal coat hanger.
- Two vegetable or soup cans.
- Duct tape.
- Small piece of wood.
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- A drill with a drill bit that is slightly larger than the diameter of the coat hanger wire.
- Wire cutters.
- A tape measure.
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- A marking pen.
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Step 2:
Mark the center of the un-opened ends of the two cans with the marking pen. The closer you are to the center, the better the trap will work. |
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Step 3:
Drill a hole at the marks made on the cans. |
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Step 4:
Drill two holes in the bucket, just above the handle bosses. Depending on the size of the cans used, you may need to adjust the height of the holes in the bucket. You want the top of the cans to be close to the top of the bucket, but not higher. |
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Step 5:
Lay the coat hanger across the bucket. Using the wire cutters, cut the bottom out of the coat hanger leaving at least an inch overhang on each side. |
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Step 6:
Make a 90 degree bend, about 1/2 inch in length, at one end of the wire. |
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Step 7:
Thead the straight end of the wire through one of the holes in the bucket. Thread the wire through the hole in the bottom of one of the cans and out through the open end of the can. |
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Step 8:
Feed the wire through the open end of the second can and then thread it out through the hole in the bottom. |
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Step 9:
Thread the wire out through the second hole in the bucket. |
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Step 10:
With the bent end of the wire pushed against the bucket, trim the straight end so that 1 inch extends out of the bucket. |
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Step 11:
Bend the straight end of the wire as close to the bucket as possible. |
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Step 12:
Align the open ends of the two cans and duct tape them together. |
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Step 13:
Drill a hole centered in the wood about 1/2 inch from the end. |
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Step 14:
Cut one of the bent ends off the left over coat hanger. |
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Step 15:
Bend it into the shape shown in the photo. |
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Step 16:
Insert the straight end of the wire into the hole in the wood. |
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Step 17:
Bend the wire over to hold it into the wood. |
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Step 18:
Place the hook end over the edge of the bucket in line with the cans. |
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Step 19:
Smear a little peanut butter around the duct tape as bait. |
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Step 20:
Fill the bucket with 6 inches of water and you’re ready to catch some mice. |
Tips:
- If using the trap in freezing weather, use windshield washer fluid instead of water.
- If you have to leave the trap for an extend period, like a weekend home, pour enough vegetable oil into the water to make a layer of oil above the water. The oil will act as a barrier and reduce the smell of the decaying mice.
If you have any other tips, let me know and I will add them.
Thanks to Blake for his assistance documenting this How-To:
Posted in How-To, The Farm | 1 Comment
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Put a rock in the bottom of the trap so that it sticks out of the water, making a little island for the first mouse to hang out on. When a second mouse falls into the pail, it’ll fight the first for the dry spot on the rock. The noise of the two mice fighting will attract more mice to your trap.
I also recommend adding a squirt of dish washing soap to the water as well–it breaks the surface tension of the water and helps the mice drown quicker.
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