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	<title>Comments on: Feeder Comparison</title>
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	<link>http://robo.bushkillfarms.com</link>
	<description>Trial and Tribulations of a Hobby Beekeeper!</description>
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		<title>By: Robo</title>
		<link>http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/comment-page-1/#comment-10686</link>
		<dc:creator>Robo</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 05 Oct 2011 12:29:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/#comment-10686</guid>
		<description>@Sharon - I would suggest feeding them as much syrup as they will take over the next week or two and then stop feeding syrup.   Just like when collecting nectar,  the bees need ripen they syrup   otherwise the moisture content will be too high come winter.   Time has just about run out for them to be able to do such,  the weather is getting too cold.   In fact, I removed the last of my syrup feeders last week.

Too much moisture will most likely lead to dysentery and possibly nosema.   Although I&#039;m not a big fan of medicating,  at this late point of the season for this case, you may want to put Fumagilin-B in the syrup.   Furthermore,  bees will not take cold syrup easily and I would imaging  the syrup would get extremely cold in a Montana winter.

Once you have given them as much syrup as they will take,  I would then provide them with either a &lt;a href=&quot;http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/emergency-feeding/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sugar board&lt;/a&gt; or place a piece of newspaper in place of the inner cover and put an empty honey super on top and pour granulated sugar on to the newspaper.

Best of luck,
- Rob</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>@Sharon &#8211; I would suggest feeding them as much syrup as they will take over the next week or two and then stop feeding syrup.   Just like when collecting nectar,  the bees need ripen they syrup   otherwise the moisture content will be too high come winter.   Time has just about run out for them to be able to do such,  the weather is getting too cold.   In fact, I removed the last of my syrup feeders last week.</p>
<p>Too much moisture will most likely lead to dysentery and possibly nosema.   Although I&#8217;m not a big fan of medicating,  at this late point of the season for this case, you may want to put Fumagilin-B in the syrup.   Furthermore,  bees will not take cold syrup easily and I would imaging  the syrup would get extremely cold in a Montana winter.</p>
<p>Once you have given them as much syrup as they will take,  I would then provide them with either a <a href="http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/emergency-feeding/" rel="nofollow">sugar board</a> or place a piece of newspaper in place of the inner cover and put an empty honey super on top and pour granulated sugar on to the newspaper.</p>
<p>Best of luck,<br />
- Rob</p>
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		<title>By: Robo</title>
		<link>http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/comment-page-1/#comment-10685</link>
		<dc:creator>Robo</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 05 Oct 2011 12:16:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/#comment-10685</guid>
		<description>@Fred  - Yes, unfortunately depending on the manufacturer of your equipment,  gallon pickle jars may not fit properly.   I build my own inner covers,  so they are built to provide proper clearance.  I do occasionally run into issues with acquired equipment, and in those cases I just throw an empty honey super on top of the empty deep.   

Just FYI,  gallon paint cans work extremely well also and there is no issue fitting them in an empty deep.   Around here, Lowe&#039;s sells them,  but if you know any painters,  I&#039;m sure they can be picked up for free.

- Rob</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>@Fred  &#8211; Yes, unfortunately depending on the manufacturer of your equipment,  gallon pickle jars may not fit properly.   I build my own inner covers,  so they are built to provide proper clearance.  I do occasionally run into issues with acquired equipment, and in those cases I just throw an empty honey super on top of the empty deep.   </p>
<p>Just FYI,  gallon paint cans work extremely well also and there is no issue fitting them in an empty deep.   Around here, Lowe&#8217;s sells them,  but if you know any painters,  I&#8217;m sure they can be picked up for free.</p>
<p>- Rob</p>
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		<title>By: Sharon</title>
		<link>http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/comment-page-1/#comment-10673</link>
		<dc:creator>Sharon</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 05 Oct 2011 02:20:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/#comment-10673</guid>
		<description>I have 2 hives and captured a swarm in late July.  I know I am going to have to feed the swarm all winter and as I live in Montana it will be a challenge.  I was thinking of using a pail feeder but after reading the commits I am afraid maybe that won&#039;t work because temp although cold most of the winter will warm in Jan of Feb. If I understand correctly  the contraction and expanding could be a problem.  Would I be better off using gal jars.  I plan to put the feeder in an empty hive body at the top with the inner cover on between the hive and the empty body and put insulation around the feeder.  Insulation should help adsorb moisture and also help keep hive warm.  I would appreciate any suggestion.  Lost a hive last year don&#039;t want to lose another.  Thanks</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have 2 hives and captured a swarm in late July.  I know I am going to have to feed the swarm all winter and as I live in Montana it will be a challenge.  I was thinking of using a pail feeder but after reading the commits I am afraid maybe that won&#8217;t work because temp although cold most of the winter will warm in Jan of Feb. If I understand correctly  the contraction and expanding could be a problem.  Would I be better off using gal jars.  I plan to put the feeder in an empty hive body at the top with the inner cover on between the hive and the empty body and put insulation around the feeder.  Insulation should help adsorb moisture and also help keep hive warm.  I would appreciate any suggestion.  Lost a hive last year don&#8217;t want to lose another.  Thanks</p>
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		<title>By: Fred</title>
		<link>http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/comment-page-1/#comment-10291</link>
		<dc:creator>Fred</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 19 Sep 2011 16:49:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/#comment-10291</guid>
		<description>A 1 gallon pickle jar is too tall for a deep box, even without 3/8 inch shims some place under it?! I have spent the last several months collecting the jars and was surprised to find out this difficulty. 

I plan to make further holes in my inner covers and see if the telescoping covers will cover enough of the sides to sit on top of the jar. I guess if I put a brick on top of the hive all the weight of the brick + syrup will be supported by the inner cover? Maybe I&#039;ll purchase some straps..

On second thought I&#039;ll make some feeder boxes that will shim it up high enough to place the weight on the outer boxes instead. 

Disappointed. 

(My 1 gallon jars are from Vlasic Pickles found currently to my knowledge only at Sam&#039;s Club. Looks very similar to the one pictured.)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A 1 gallon pickle jar is too tall for a deep box, even without 3/8 inch shims some place under it?! I have spent the last several months collecting the jars and was surprised to find out this difficulty. </p>
<p>I plan to make further holes in my inner covers and see if the telescoping covers will cover enough of the sides to sit on top of the jar. I guess if I put a brick on top of the hive all the weight of the brick + syrup will be supported by the inner cover? Maybe I&#8217;ll purchase some straps..</p>
<p>On second thought I&#8217;ll make some feeder boxes that will shim it up high enough to place the weight on the outer boxes instead. </p>
<p>Disappointed. </p>
<p>(My 1 gallon jars are from Vlasic Pickles found currently to my knowledge only at Sam&#8217;s Club. Looks very similar to the one pictured.)</p>
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		<title>By: Robo</title>
		<link>http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/comment-page-1/#comment-6045</link>
		<dc:creator>Robo</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:29:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/#comment-6045</guid>
		<description>@Bill,
Yes, just another take on the inverted jar.  Personally,  I just find them as just another piece of equipment to deal with (purchase/build,  maintain and store) that is not needed.  Inverting the jar right over the inner cover hole works just as well.  I have 2 holes in my inner covers, so multi-jar feeding is not an issue either.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;a class=&quot;noshadow&quot; href=&quot;http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/685-1/innercover.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/686-2/innercover.jpg&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>@Bill,<br />
Yes, just another take on the inverted jar.  Personally,  I just find them as just another piece of equipment to deal with (purchase/build,  maintain and store) that is not needed.  Inverting the jar right over the inner cover hole works just as well.  I have 2 holes in my inner covers, so multi-jar feeding is not an issue either.<br />
<a class="noshadow" href="http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/685-1/innercover.jpg" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/686-2/innercover.jpg"/></a></p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Robo</title>
		<link>http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/comment-page-1/#comment-6044</link>
		<dc:creator>Robo</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:17:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/#comment-6044</guid>
		<description>@Lunchbag,
That will work as long as the weather is warm and the bees don&#039;t have to break cluster to feed.  A better option that I have found for TBH is a division board like feeder that allows the bees access from the comb and can be filled from the outside.  Using this type of feeder, I was able to feed four nucs through the entire winter my first year with TBHs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;a class=&quot;noshadow&quot; href=&quot;http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/2014-2/IMG_2613.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/2013-2/IMG_2613.JPG&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;noshadow&quot; href=&quot;http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/2018-2/IMG_2616.JPGg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/2017-2/IMG_2616.JPG&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;noshadow&quot; href=&quot;http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/2371-2/IMG_3206.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/2370-2/IMG_3206.JPG&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;noshadow&quot; href=&quot;http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/2374-2/IMG_3210.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/2373-2/IMG_3210.JPG&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>@Lunchbag,<br />
That will work as long as the weather is warm and the bees don&#8217;t have to break cluster to feed.  A better option that I have found for TBH is a division board like feeder that allows the bees access from the comb and can be filled from the outside.  Using this type of feeder, I was able to feed four nucs through the entire winter my first year with TBHs.<br />
<a class="noshadow" href="http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/2014-2/IMG_2613.JPG" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/2013-2/IMG_2613.JPG"/></a><a class="noshadow" href="http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/2018-2/IMG_2616.JPGg" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/2017-2/IMG_2616.JPG"/></a><a class="noshadow" href="http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/2371-2/IMG_3206.JPG" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/2370-2/IMG_3206.JPG"/></a><a class="noshadow" href="http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/2374-2/IMG_3210.JPG" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/2373-2/IMG_3210.JPG"/></a></p>
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		<title>By: bill W</title>
		<link>http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/comment-page-1/#comment-5843</link>
		<dc:creator>bill W</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 09 Apr 2011 10:09:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/#comment-5843</guid>
		<description>These are the best for feeding on top inside a hive body.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;a href=&quot;http://kelleybees.com/CMS/CMSPage.aspx?OrganizationId=3&amp;pageName=productDetail&amp;productId=6605%7cProductGroup&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://kelleybees.com/Files/Organization3/Images/Products/6605.jpg&quot; width=150&gt;&lt;/a&gt;
just don&#039;t use many holes or it will drip down and freeze the bees. They are super easy to make on your own too.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>These are the best for feeding on top inside a hive body.<br />
<a href="http://kelleybees.com/CMS/CMSPage.aspx?OrganizationId=3&#038;pageName=productDetail&#038;productId=6605%7cProductGroup" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://kelleybees.com/Files/Organization3/Images/Products/6605.jpg" width=150/></a><br />
just don&#8217;t use many holes or it will drip down and freeze the bees. They are super easy to make on your own too.</p>
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		<title>By: Lunchbag</title>
		<link>http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/comment-page-1/#comment-5669</link>
		<dc:creator>Lunchbag</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 26 Mar 2011 02:46:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/#comment-5669</guid>
		<description>Nice comparison.  In a top-bar hive, could you put the quart Mason jar feeder on the 3/8&quot; shims, inside the hive near the back (where there is no comb built)?  If the hive has a mesh floor instead of wood floor, I suppose this would be too heavy...a plastic bag feeder might spread the weight out better?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Nice comparison.  In a top-bar hive, could you put the quart Mason jar feeder on the 3/8&#8243; shims, inside the hive near the back (where there is no comb built)?  If the hive has a mesh floor instead of wood floor, I suppose this would be too heavy&#8230;a plastic bag feeder might spread the weight out better?</p>
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		<title>By: chris</title>
		<link>http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/comment-page-1/#comment-2966</link>
		<dc:creator>chris</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 Aug 2010 13:00:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/#comment-2966</guid>
		<description>i have 3 hive top feeders where the enter from the center. i had a problem with drowning several hundred between feedings so i added mire mesh to the bee channel for the bees to grab on to and have not had a proiblem since love them for their easy access and large capacity.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>i have 3 hive top feeders where the enter from the center. i had a problem with drowning several hundred between feedings so i added mire mesh to the bee channel for the bees to grab on to and have not had a proiblem since love them for their easy access and large capacity.</p>
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		<title>By: Robo</title>
		<link>http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/comment-page-1/#comment-2823</link>
		<dc:creator>Robo</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 23 May 2010 15:16:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/#comment-2823</guid>
		<description>@Wimal,
I guess it all depends on your personal philosophy of ventilation vs. heat retention,  but that is another topic in itself.  Feral hives don&#039;t like ventilation and tend to seal up the cavity as tightly as possible.  If ventilation is a concern,  you can prop the jar up on 2 shims or offset it so it does not cover the entire hole.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>@Wimal,<br />
I guess it all depends on your personal philosophy of ventilation vs. heat retention,  but that is another topic in itself.  Feral hives don&#8217;t like ventilation and tend to seal up the cavity as tightly as possible.  If ventilation is a concern,  you can prop the jar up on 2 shims or offset it so it does not cover the entire hole.</p>
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